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The Daylily Garden arises from coming changes likely in the management of the Craig County Meadow View Daylily Farm.
The site is one mile east of the Continental Divide at 2545 feet.
Specific Location:
An alternative operation might include partnership development with the current owner and payments from profits over time.
Ideas:
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There are not many plants that can surpass the daylily, Hemerocallis flava (or day-lily) (family Hemerocallidaceae in usefulness or beauty. It is a monocot, blooms in July and through mid-August. Some are fragrant. The common "roadside" daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) and the Lemon Daylily (Hemerocallis flava) are two known species reportedly brought to North America by early settlers emigrating from Europe Eurasia, the wild orange daylily is widespread and indicated old home-sites. Modern daylilies have evolved after years of thoughtful hybridizing by many different growers beginning with species plants collected from China and Japan. Many of today's named daylilies (ssome1700 cultivars) come in a variety of shapes and sizes with clearer colors in nearly every color except pure white and pure blue.
Planted closely and in large numbers, they shade out most weeds.
It will grow in almost any soil. It will thrive under the deep shade of plantations where the ground is as dry as dust all the summer, and pretty well exhausted of all goodness by the hungry roots of the trees. When in flower, a large clump presents a beautiful appearance, and when not in flower the fresh cheerful green and the elegant outlines of the sword or sickle-shaped leaves are pleasing features. But there remains to be told a fact "not generally known," and it is that this beautiful lily may be turned to excellent account to furnish fodder to cattle, and more especially to cows in milk.
As garden plants, the daylilies deserve much more attention than they have as yet obtained. Their flowers are showy and fragrant and all are highly ornamental. The commonest of the series are the yellow (Hemerocallis flava) and the copper (H. fulva). Amongst the many good things secured to us by the late Mr. Robert Fortune--most fortunate of botanical travellers -- was the Japan species (H. kwanso), of which there are two or three varieties. One of these, called Kwanso flore pleno, has green leaves and double yellow flowers; the other, called Kwanso flore pleno foliis variegatis (which, if not long enough, may be lengthened by prefixing the generic name Hemerocallis), has splendidly variegated leaves and double yellow flowers, and atones for the length of its name by the fact that it is the finest hardy variegated-leaved plant in cultivation !
They generally make a superb ornament for the conservatory or for the choicest rockery or border.
The three day-lilies that have been named thus far, H. flava, fulva, and kwanso, will prove an agreeable task for one who is earnest in gardening. But there are a dozen more worth having, such as Dumortier's (H. Dumortieri), with narrow leaves and reddish-brown flowers; the grass-leaved (H. graminea), also with narrow leaves, but with yellow flowers, which are scarcely so handsome as those of H. flava. The two-rowed (H. disticha) has the leaves set in two rows very distinctly; the flowers are yellow without and reddish within. Nor need we stop here, for there is a pink-flowered species called H. Japonica, less robust in growth than the others, but well adapted for a place on a rockery, where its form will contrast well with the tufted plants. And yet one more, which brings us back to the subject of the plate. The common yellow daylily may be obtained in a variegated form, the variety being catalogued as "striatis." It is not equal to the variegated kwanso, but it is a fine plant, and worthy of pot-culture to decorate the conservatory while its elegant striped leaves have the freshness of new growth upon them.
Shady borders give much trouble, and whatever may be grown in them with some degree of certainty must be made much of. The daylily is one of the very best of plants for such places, provided it can obtain a fair share of the rainfall of the winter. Deciduous trees permit the herbs at their feet to live by affording access to them of the rain that falls between November and April; but evergreens are less merciful and kill everything beneath their shade. (Notes from www.Aboutflowers.com)
The daylily is not a true lily even though it is a member of the Lily family. Hemerocallis is a botanical name derived from two Greek words that represent "beauty and day" or beauty for a day. 
Most daylily blooms last just for one day, opening in early morning and remaining open throughout the afternoon into early evening. There are exceptions. Usually, several flower buds form on each plant in various stages allowing for a succession of bloom for periods from a few to several weeks.
In upstate New York, blooming can begin as early as mid-June for extra early varieties with a main season peak bloom occurring in mid-July. Late varieties extend the bloom period from early August with a few lasting into frost. In the south, many daylilies have what is called a re-bloom cycle where the plant sends up new scapes after resting for a short period. In the north this is not as common. Rebloom scapes may appear but most without sufficient time to bloom before frost. Experience will determine which scapes have a chance to rebloom and which ones should be cut close to the crown to save the plant's energies. Each blossom only lasts for a day (thus the plant's name) but there may be many blossoms per plant. By selecting varieties with different bloom times, the garden can yield color from June to September.
Where to Plant
Daylilies prefer full sun but will tolerate some shade. If full sun is not available, it is best to place them so that they will receive at least six hours of full sun each day. The lighter colors, light yellows and pinks, need more sun to bring out their colorings. Purples and reds may benefit from afternoon shade on hot summer days. Daylilies should not be planted near large trees where root competition for available nutrients may hinder their development.
Soil should be relatively well drained to eliminate standing water. This is especially true in early spring as winter's snow thaws. Although daylilies can tolerate much water, and need copious amounts to perform well, their crowns should be kept above standing water levels. Planting in a slight mound or in raised beds will help eliminate this problem.
Daylilies planted close to warm foundations and those with protected southern exposures should be well mulched in early winter. This will help protect them from starting too early and becoming susceptible to severe frost damage.
When to Plant
Daylilies should be planted in their permanent location after the last date for spring frost. They do not like to be set back. If new plants arrive early and are planted in the garden they should be protected from late spring frost. If it is not possible to get them in the ground within a day or two of arrival, plants can be held in damp sand or moist potting medium.
In Craig County shipping is with digging April 15 to June 1 and August 10 to October 1.
Spring planting is preferable as it gives the new plant time to develop a strong root system to carry it through the winter. If it is necessary to plant in fall, put it in the ground at least six weeks before killing frost. Then, after a killing frost, mulch it well. Fall planting of southern grown plants is risky in northern climates.
Avoid if possible planting in July through early August. High temperature produces stress while high humidity and high temperature can cause conditions for disease. If necessary to plant during summer's peak, a simple protective shading device can be made by pushing four stakes in the ground around the plant and placing a brown paper grocery bag upside down over the stakes. Leave an ample air space at the bottom of the bag for circulation.
Newly arrived bare root plants can be soaked in a dilute (1/4) solution of liquid fertilizer. This should be for a few hours but can be over night if need be. Shipping tends to dehydrate the plants. Remove any dead roots. The foliage should be cut back to about 6 inches above the crown to reduce the transpiration loss. Extra long roots can also be cut back to about six or eight inches from the crown without hurting the plant. It is better to trim long roots than to try to curl them around the planting hole.
Work the soil to a depth of at least one-foot. Compost or other soil building amendments can be added. The soil should be loose allowing for good aeration, water percolation, and rootlet formation. The planting hole should be wider than the root spread so the roots will not be crammed into the hole.
Mound the soil in the hole so that the crown will be just below the top surface of the mound and slightly above the surrounding surfaces. This will keep the crown out of standing water. Remember that the soil in the hole will settle some so make the mound a little higher to compensate for settling. Cover the roots and compress lightly to remove any air pockets. Water liberally to settle the plant in. After the water has receded, finish filling in the hole. Remember to label the plant.
Clay soils and compacted soils will limit the root spread of the plant. This results in the cramping of new crown development that will decrease overall plant performance. Amending these soils with good compost or leaf mold, for example, will allow the roots and crown development to spread out more. The plant will increase faster and be much easier to divide and will not need to be divided as often.
Space daylilies at least 18 to 24 inches apart. This allows ample room for growth without crowding. It may look sparse but in a year or two the reason for this spacing will become apparent. Try to leave a daylily undisturbed for at least three years. Divide and replant every 5 years. (? to be decided)
Winter Protection
We like to leave the frost-killed foliage in place. It gives a small amount of protection to the crowns. In addition, winter mulch plants with a light covering of wheat straw, pine needles or similar mulch. The mulch helps to reduce the freeze- thaw- freeze cycle damage and frost heaving. In early spring, the more hardy plants will begin to grow right up through the light mulch while the less hardy plants still receive some protection from spring frost. As spring approaches, the mulch can be pulled back from the more tender plants on warm days and pushed back over the plants during freezing nights.
Some people recommend removing the die back foliage in fall. They believe it removes a wintering over hiding place for harmful pests. If a given garden is known to have such pests, then this practice may be worth considering. It does give the winter garden a neater appearance.
Dividing
A daylily clump may not need to be divided before 3 to 5 years at the earliest. Decreased bloom is one indicator for dividing although there may climatic conditions that also can influence the plant's performance. A freshly dug daylily should have its foliage cut back to about six to eight inches above the crown. The general practice is to cut it in the shape of an inverted "V". The roots should be thoroughly washed clean with a garden hose. This allows better inspection and easier separation of the crowns.
The divisions can be single, double, or multiple fans depending upon the whims of the gardener or how the original clump best comes apart. Compacted crowns are difficult to divide. They are best cut apart with a sharp knife. Large compacted crowns can be forced apart with the point of a well-placed shovel and a heavy foot. Each fan should have its own collection of roots. Double fan divisions will clump up much faster than single fan divisions.
Some gardeners air dry the cut crowns before planting. Others sprinkle fungicides or a rooting hormone compound on the cut surface. We have found little need for disease protection in our cool climate. But if divisions are made in hot humid weather some sort of disease protection may be advisable.
Watering
Daylilies thrive with ample watering. An inch of rainfall per week is considered the minimum. Without sufficient watering, bloom production will diminish. Water is needed most in spring and summer when growth is rapid and blooms are being produced.
As with most other plants, watering should be done so as to be sure it reaches clear through the root zone of at least eight to ten inches deep. Clay soils tend to retain water so they do not need to be watered as often as sandy soils. Clay soils should never be allowed to become completely dry. If overhead sprinklers are used, they are best applied during the late afternoon or evening so as not to damage open blooms.
Fertilizing
Daylilies thrive in a wide range of soil pH with approximately 6.5 being the optimum ? Adjust your soil's pH.
Established plants will benefit from a spring application of a good fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 following the manufacture's instructions as to rates printed on the package. Older and larger established clumps may require a little more fertilizer due to soil depletion. New plantings should not receive more than a very dilute (1/4 to 1/2) fertilizer until they are established. Foliar applied fertilizers are ideal for daylilies.
Gardeners should avoid high nitrogen fertilizer and late summer applications as they may lead to decreased bloom and lack of winter hardiness respectfully. Some commercial growers do use high nitrogen fertilizer in spring to force the plant to increase fan development. These growers are willing to sacrifice flowering and scape strength for vigorous foliage growth and fan development for future divisions.
The above is adapted from Internet source Complied by Tom Rood, past American Hemerocallis Society Region 4 Vice President, Publicity Director/Editor, Master Gardener- Yates County Cornell Cooperative Extension, founder, Finger Lakes Daylily Society.
Acknowledgments: Leslie Hegeman, Past President, Long Island Daylily Society. Nassau County Cornell Cooperative Extension. Daylilies -The Beginner's Handbook, 1991 Revised edition. American Hemerocallis Society.
| Attempts to create a cultivar... Select two plants with different desired traits. Rub the stamen's anther and pollen on to the stigma of the other plant, the female plant. Let that plant form seed pods and when the pods brown and crack (40-60 days), harvest the seeds and dry them. Plant them in late fall thinly covered. Label. Results may be seen in 1-3 years. |
See Wildwood Farms, 2380 Floyd Highway (US 221), Floyd Virginia (Garden open from mid-May to mid August ) (540-745-5155)
See Daylily rust
Source: Abundant Daylilies
See potentials for rootone or other hormone
Perhaps you will share ideas with me about some of the topic(s) above .
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Robert H. Giles, Jr.
July 8, 2006